![]() ![]() i don't understand where I check for 6 volts?-at the gauge or on the wire I pull from the temp sending unit on manifold. shall i ground the wire from the temp sensor and see what happens. no reason to believe that the temp sender screwed into the intake manifold is bad out of the blue. shall I swap the yellow on the fuel gauge with the red-white stripe on the temp gauge? the other wires ae both black green stripe, pigtailed to each other and I think go to the CVR. i would have to move the temp needle a lot from hot-hot to ice cold and don't think there would be enough teeth to do that. (it was good 2 weeks ago when i pulled the gauge out.) I did not touch the temp gauge "teeth/gear when I adjusted the fuel part. since the fuel gauge works then the CVR is good. the fuel gauge now works, reads F(ull) now and I assume will go down as I use gas up. what i did today was turn one of the "gears" a little bit to move the fuel gauge needle to the F. i wondered whether the float level was different in the new one. this was an aftermarket part from bird nest. Ok, i had changed out the sending unit/float in the gas tank about 2 yrs ago. The simplicity of these gauges is the reason why they last so long. Here is an example of what is going on inside each gauge: The ni-chrome wire in each gauge IS a resistor but its value never changes. Nearly all gauges are properly set and the only condition that changes is resistance in the sending units. The best I can suggest is to follow the manual. I have no idea which 'gear' you moved, how far or in which direction. Getting back to square one will be a challenge. Heat on the bi-metal strip makes the needle deflect, which causes the needle to move. K-S (the gauge manufacturer) wrapped ni-chrome wire around a bi-metal strip then the sending unit allows current to pass through it. Understand that both gauges operate based on current. If the problem transfers over to the 'other gauge' then the sending unit or wire goint to the bad one is faulty. As stated, you can swap wires on the gauges because they are identical. If one gauge works but the other doesn't, the CVR is good. If you get more than six volts either your CVR is not properly grounded or it is shorted. If you get up to six volts the CVR is working. Time to pull the volt meter out and TEST the DISCONNECTED wire at the sending unit to ground. This will tell whether the gauge is responding and how far the needle goes at 'full scale'. That's why I encourage you to ground the wire at the sending unit FIRST. It's almost a mistake to put 'adjustment information' on our site because the gauges should not be altered except maybe by tiny amounts. ![]() These gauges are nearly bulletproof and those 'cogs' you call 'gears' are simply part of two arms that pull on the needle. There is no armature, no magnetism, none of that. Truth is, there are NO GEARS anywhere inside Ford gauges. I tried warning you before changing those gauge settings. ![]()
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